Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden

"...Changdeokgung is laid out in harmony with the area's topography: Changdeokgong was constructed on the base of a mountain.  Buildings were positioned naturally, taking into consideration the geographical features of the slope...Changdeokgung is a unique case in the history of palace architecture in East Asia, as it retains remarkable asymmetric beauty...and is exceptional for the way in which the buildings are integrated and harmonized with natural setting."

The main entrance

With Brian finally in town, I was excited to take him out to show him this brand new culture and what Seoul had to offer.  Maybe a little too excited.  He landed Wednesday night, and he managed Namsam Park, the Rainbow Festival, a couple of outdoor markets and Changdeokgung Palace...all on a sixteen hour time difference.  Thanks for being a trooper.

I had been looking forward to visiting a palace for a while, so Sunday we made our way to Jongo Station.  I was worried about finding the visiting area, but in such a modern part of the city it's difficult for a palace to stay hidden for long.  Approaching, it was easy to imagine the grandeur it must have held in 1405.  Bright colors, a perfect symmetry, and a height that could be seen from miles away held a regalness that brought the area to life.  We found ourselves on an English tour and explored the King's office, the King's Road (where he was not expected to ever touch the ground, and so was carried) and the various rooms to house servants, guests, and family. 

The most interesting part for me was the architecture.  It was built by Koreans for Koreans with Chinese writing (since it was originally constructed before Hangul, Korean language, was invented and Chinese was considered the language of power).  The palace was destroyed in 1592 by the Japanese, and various other riots and fires make all but two of the buildings originals from the 15th century. 

As it was being rebuilt here and there, western influences can be seen popping up in various rooms.  I didn't notice until the tour guide pointed out something as simple as a the view to the outdoors:  "You can see the western influence strongly here as there is glass in the window."  There were also lamps with electricity and western chairs (that were not just cushions for the ground).  I asked the tour guide, a plump Korean woman in traditional dress, why there are two palaces right next to each other.  Geography, a "back-up house" for royalty, more room for the King's concubines are all cited as legitmate reasons, but it's easy to see that the king had ulterior motives.  Having killed a couple of people he wanted the option of not living in "the scene of a bloodbath" ...that he made himself.

The royal library and lotus pond

It's hard not to like a king, whatever he did in his spare time, when he was the one who established the Secret Garden.  A beautiful, lush 75 acres of forest, pavilions and lakes are established.  Once strictly for the king and his personal guests, it is now a one and a half hour tour offered in four different languages.  Despite its lost purpose, it was refreshing to be completely enveloped in so much nature in the middle of a busy city.  My favorite part was the Ongnyucheon area.  A rock with Chinese calligraphy becomes part of a small waterfall that used to turn into a brook that lead in and out of the various pavilions.  Unfortunately due to industrization the water has since dried up, but it was easy to picture a calm, cool, serene area to enjoy.  The tour guide mentioned private meditation, an escape from daily life, and a place to mull over brilliant political ideas while every one in the tour group nodded and snapped some pictures.   A closer look at the guide book, however, paints a different picture of the kings idea of escape:

Palaces look good
on us.

"They held parties there during which they composed poetry while sending wine cups afloat on the waters.  When a wine cup was sent to a specific person, the recipient had to drink the wine from the cup then compose an impromptu poem and recite it.  If the person could not recite the poem, he had to drink three cups of wine as punishment.  This type of party soon became widely popular among high society."

More than anything, I love pretentious drinking games.  Especially when they involve wine.  Although more money and a seperate entrance fee from the palace, the Secret Garden is more than worth a visit, and the palace is a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

A Juniper tree believed to be over 750 years old, used for incense for ancestral rituals

Injeongjeon, the "main attraction", although it was last rebuilt in 1804 with heavy
western influence