Cheongpyeong (정평)

Last weekend I stayed at a pension in Cheongpyeong.  It was a heavily wooded area, with rolling hills, with wonderfully refreshing resevoir and a lovely river running around town--and we got there by subway.  It continues to amaze me the vastness of the public transportation here. 

It might take a while, but it's less than three thousand won ($2.80-ish) so it's simply wonderful.  Most of the ride is above ground, so the view from the window passes the time as I continue to be blown away by life outside of Seoul, in the Korean countryside, just inherently more engulfed in nature than I ever saw back in the states.

The night before we had been "good", and we were on our way on the subway at 9 a.m. on a Saturday morning.  Impressive.  Because of our early start, we were in Cheongpyeong by 11:30 a.m.  In a blur of Korean I didn't understand we found ourselves at a supermarket, stocking up for the night ahead at the pension where we would set up some BBQ. Remember when you were ten years old at the supermarket?  What would your cart look like if your mom didn't take everything out to put back on the shelf?  Now: imagine that, but with a bunch of 20-somethings.  We got some watermelon, peaches, meat for the BBQ, some mushrooms to grill, some Korean seasoning, marshmallow cookies, beer, more beer, soju, more soju, chocolate... 

We soon found ourselves at the pension, climbing out the van: five adults and their goods.  We walked into our home for the night--a large, empty room equipped with one bathroom and one kitchen.  Not wanting to sound as ignorant as I was, I didn't ask where we were going to sleep.  Into another van and we were headed to the dock.

"That was nice of the pension to drive us to the lake," I said.

"This is the water company," said Jamie.

"Then who drove us to the pension?"

"The supermarket."

"The supermarket drove us?"

"Yes, because we bought things there."

I just stopped asking questions, thankful for the free rides for seemingly no reason at all.  Could you imagine that in New York City?  "I really appreciate your business.  Let me get this cab for you."  Ha.

The dock could not have been more perfect.  We ordered some fried chicken, and enoyed the view until we were brave enough to try the "Fly Fish".  That might be, as far as feeling, be one of the highlights of my life so far.  Pulled by the boat, you end up in standing position, holding on for dear life, as you become airborne for 5-10 seconds, looking out over the wake, into the mountains, over the water as it rushes beneath you.  We went on three rides throughout the day, alternating between tanning, swimming, boating, sleeping, drinking, and in general having the time of our lives. 

Because we were meeting two more of our friends at the pension, we dragged ourselves away from the water and headed back to start preparing for our BBQ.  Someone put the meat we had just bought in the freezer, so Rachel and I were in charge of melting the block with a combination of knives and microwaves.  Poor Gretchen was a victim of not being in the city, and was last to shower and use up all the water, so she was busy bathing out of a pot of water.  Eric was doing crazy things with the grill, and Jamie--the resident Korean in the group--was making sure we were doing everything correctly.  Looking around, it was nice to have these people around, making Korea a make-shift home full of happiness and laughter.  Even though we all know eachother to different degrees, we can somehow just appreciate where we are, and the wonderful opportunity we have to enjoy the moment we're in.  We set the table with the grilled, defrosted meat, the vegetables, the soybean paste, the beer, the soju and cheered. We had a great night filled with the fresh air of the mountains on our own deck looking out over this small, quaint town.  Jamie taught me the Korean motto that you pour someone as much soju as the amount you love them.  So, so much love that night.  So much.

The next morning I saw a line-up of the offenders.

We spent the next hour getting up, moving to a bench to lay for a while, over to a deck chair for a while, and back in bed, trying to get our day started.  It wasn't until we dragged ourselves back to the lake and into the water that we woke up.  Something about dumping your entire body into cold water wipes any hangover away instantly.  One more round of the Fly Fish and tanning and we were ready to head back into the busy metropolitan of Seoul, another great weekend in Korea.

Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden

"...Changdeokgung is laid out in harmony with the area's topography: Changdeokgong was constructed on the base of a mountain.  Buildings were positioned naturally, taking into consideration the geographical features of the slope...Changdeokgung is a unique case in the history of palace architecture in East Asia, as it retains remarkable asymmetric beauty...and is exceptional for the way in which the buildings are integrated and harmonized with natural setting."

The main entrance

With Brian finally in town, I was excited to take him out to show him this brand new culture and what Seoul had to offer.  Maybe a little too excited.  He landed Wednesday night, and he managed Namsam Park, the Rainbow Festival, a couple of outdoor markets and Changdeokgung Palace...all on a sixteen hour time difference.  Thanks for being a trooper.

I had been looking forward to visiting a palace for a while, so Sunday we made our way to Jongo Station.  I was worried about finding the visiting area, but in such a modern part of the city it's difficult for a palace to stay hidden for long.  Approaching, it was easy to imagine the grandeur it must have held in 1405.  Bright colors, a perfect symmetry, and a height that could be seen from miles away held a regalness that brought the area to life.  We found ourselves on an English tour and explored the King's office, the King's Road (where he was not expected to ever touch the ground, and so was carried) and the various rooms to house servants, guests, and family. 

The most interesting part for me was the architecture.  It was built by Koreans for Koreans with Chinese writing (since it was originally constructed before Hangul, Korean language, was invented and Chinese was considered the language of power).  The palace was destroyed in 1592 by the Japanese, and various other riots and fires make all but two of the buildings originals from the 15th century. 

As it was being rebuilt here and there, western influences can be seen popping up in various rooms.  I didn't notice until the tour guide pointed out something as simple as a the view to the outdoors:  "You can see the western influence strongly here as there is glass in the window."  There were also lamps with electricity and western chairs (that were not just cushions for the ground).  I asked the tour guide, a plump Korean woman in traditional dress, why there are two palaces right next to each other.  Geography, a "back-up house" for royalty, more room for the King's concubines are all cited as legitmate reasons, but it's easy to see that the king had ulterior motives.  Having killed a couple of people he wanted the option of not living in "the scene of a bloodbath" ...that he made himself.

The royal library and lotus pond

It's hard not to like a king, whatever he did in his spare time, when he was the one who established the Secret Garden.  A beautiful, lush 75 acres of forest, pavilions and lakes are established.  Once strictly for the king and his personal guests, it is now a one and a half hour tour offered in four different languages.  Despite its lost purpose, it was refreshing to be completely enveloped in so much nature in the middle of a busy city.  My favorite part was the Ongnyucheon area.  A rock with Chinese calligraphy becomes part of a small waterfall that used to turn into a brook that lead in and out of the various pavilions.  Unfortunately due to industrization the water has since dried up, but it was easy to picture a calm, cool, serene area to enjoy.  The tour guide mentioned private meditation, an escape from daily life, and a place to mull over brilliant political ideas while every one in the tour group nodded and snapped some pictures.   A closer look at the guide book, however, paints a different picture of the kings idea of escape:

Palaces look good
on us.

"They held parties there during which they composed poetry while sending wine cups afloat on the waters.  When a wine cup was sent to a specific person, the recipient had to drink the wine from the cup then compose an impromptu poem and recite it.  If the person could not recite the poem, he had to drink three cups of wine as punishment.  This type of party soon became widely popular among high society."

More than anything, I love pretentious drinking games.  Especially when they involve wine.  Although more money and a seperate entrance fee from the palace, the Secret Garden is more than worth a visit, and the palace is a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

A Juniper tree believed to be over 750 years old, used for incense for ancestral rituals

Injeongjeon, the "main attraction", although it was last rebuilt in 1804 with heavy
western influence

The Graduate's Dilemma

Throughout college, I waited impatiently for the end of college. 

Last June, I saw all my friends graduate and have that moment of panic: that "what do I do now?" moment.  I decided that couldn't possibly happen to me.  I've been working outside of school; my life is more outside of school than in it.  I'll be fine.  Then I graduated this December, and all that was shattered.  I was out in the world, free to do whatever I wanted: meanwhile I've stayed at my old job, continued serving tables, and continued living in New York City.  It seems that there are so many things I want to do, so many opportunities, that I've actually done nothing.  It feels like I'm trying to move to the left, right, front and back all at the same time...which leaves me right where I am. 
Even this blog--even this post--is going in so many directions and I can't even pretend to control it. All I know, as of very recently, is that I am moving to South Korea to become a teacher.  The paperwork is in progress. 


I guess, like characters in a play, there are the people in my life that represent all of these things:
First of all there are my parents.  Neither of them have ever left the country, and don't plan on doing so.  When I was twelve, the whole family went to Niagra Falls, and we stayed on the U.S. side the entire time. My parents are in many ways creatures of habit.  For ten years, we went to the same place for vacation: Orlando. All seven family members drove the eighteen hours there, went to the same amusement parks, on the same rides, went to the same resort, and drove the eighteen hours back.  While they are taking the fact that I want to move to what is technically a war zone fairly well, my mother is also doing very well at assuring me that there is plenty to do here in America on a regular basis.



Then there are the two most inspirational people in my life: my boss and my co-worker at NYPR.  My boss is sort of my unofficial mentor.  She has taught me so much about myself inadvertently--we are kind of the same person, twenty years apart.  Over wine last week, I told her about my plans, and she was genuinely excited for me.  After she graduated, she moved abroad for a year, and she said it became her first empowering moment.  One of my biggest concerns in life is not fitting in all I want to do, but knowing this woman has made me realize that there is an incredibly long amount of time to everything and anything.  From Executive Producer, to college professor, to professional dancer, to living in South America, to moving to Ethiopia for two years, to becoming a mother--life can be all you want from it, and having her is a constant reminder to not be afraid to commit to things.  My co-worker is my age, and her resolution last year was to follow through and do what she said she was going to do.  It sounds simple, but in that time she's said some interesting things out loud: from "I'm moving to Cambodia for three months" to "I'm going to compete in a triathlon".  And so far, she's done them all.  Without her, I don't know if I would have the courage to do what I say out loud.  So, one opens my mind to all the opportunities that will come across in my life, and the other gives me the courage to grab hold of them and do so.  Having them as constant reminders of this has been truly moving and I'm so thankful to know both.


Then there is this guy I just met. This may sound strange, but it's weird that he's already got me thinking so much--I've known him for maybe a week.  Yet, he is completely open to everything in life in a way I had sort of have forgotten how to do.  I met him in my pajamas for goodness sakes, hungover in a big way, and still he somehow listened to our conversation with interest and still asked me out for some reason.  He keeps his heart and mind open in a way I can't help but admire.  When we first spoke, he mentioned "Sleep No More".  When my friend mentioned it to me an hour later I decided I had to go see it.  That, however, was committing to a Wednesday night show. I mentioned I was moving to Seoul, and his friend two days later told him he got a job there...so this guy decided he should move to South Korea too. Of course, who knows what will actually happen when life gets in the way.  The point is to appreciate everything that comes into your life, and accept that it is happening for a reason.



Then, as the oldest of five children, there are my siblings.  I'm honestly not sure how they feel.  I guess, with my being the odd one in the family, they aren't really surprised...they expect this kind of stuff from me.  My brother actually said, in an honest, straight-forward way that is foreign to my family's sarcastic tendencies, that he would miss me.  My youngest sister, Sammy Jo, misses me even from New Jersey now.  One of my favorite things in the world is coming home to her running to the door for a huge hug, then seeing her a moment later prancing around the house in my shoes.  The older sister is just turning twenty-one, and my other brother will be graduating high school...it would feel strange, missing all these milestones.  No one in my family has ever left for anywhere.  So far, the oldest three have all gone to college in the tri-state area.  Leaving would be heart-breaking...but I guess it's better to have it hurt because you love something so much.  In the end, I have to keep reminding myself that part of being the oldest is showing the younger ones what they are capable of.  I can't take full credit, but being the first to move out, to get a job, to follow my crazy career path, etc....I hope it helped make it a little less scary for my brothers and sisters than it was for me.


Making this list of people in my life, I've realized there is no one--not even my parents--that are telling me not to go.  Something about it is just so freeing, and so fleeting, everyone has either felt that rush and wants it for me or regrets ever having it (except, I think, my parents).  Who knows what will happen in the future, what might make me stay here or in another city, or if I'll ever have the opportunity to just pick up and leave again.


This, as I expected, has been a crazy first post.  I hope no one finds this blog until it actually has a point.